Fashion Film and Genre Ecology
AbstractWe analyse the challenges and changing character, production and consumption of the emerging genre fashion lm through a genre as ecology approach. This approach accounts for the complexity of various rhetorical practices used within the creative industries, such as fashion. We find that digital mediation compels genre innovation in networked cultures in the mediation of fashion. We examine three fashion films to ascertain how they function as cultural production within web- and mobile-based communication and networked articulations. These need to be understood as part of distributed, polyvocal and multimodally mediated digital branding and advertising strategies that have largely not been addressed as genre by media and communication studies. Genre ecology is proposed as an addition to typological and developmental models of (media) genre innovation.
Arvidsson, A. (2006). Brands. London: Routledge.
Bakhtin, M. (1981).The Dialogic Imagination. Austin: University of Texas Press.
Barnard, M. (2001). Fashion as Communication. (2nd Edn). London: Routledge.
Bateson, G. (1973). Steps to an ecology of mind. London: Paladin.
Berkenkotter, C., & Huckin, T. (1995). Genre Knowledge in Disciplinary Communication. Hillsdale: Lawrence Erlbaum.
Bordwell, D. (1989): Making Meaning: Inference and Rhetoric in the Interpretation of Cinema. Cambridge: Harvard University Press.
Bruzzi, S. (2000). ‘Grace Kelly’. In S. Bruzzi, & P. Church Gibson. (Eds). Fashion Cultures. London: Routledge. 205-208.
Chung, C., Inaba, J., Koolhaas, R., & Leong, S. (Eds.). The Harvard Design School Guide to Shopping. Graduate School of Design: Harvard.
Church-Gibson, P. (2012). Fashion & Celebrity Culture. London: Berg.
Comer-Arldt, E. (2014). ‘It’s all about the image: the cooperation between the fashion industry and celebrities’. In E. Gaugele. (Ed.). Aesthetic Politics of Fashion. Berlin: Sternberg Press. 45-58.
Couldry, N. (2013). Media, Society, World. Polity: Cambridge.
Deuze, M. (2007). ‘Convergence culture in the creative industries’. International Journal of Cultural Studies, 10(2), 243-263.
Freadman, A. (2015). The traps and trappings of genre theory. In N. Artemeva & A. Freedman. (Eds.), Genre studies around the globe: Beyond the three traditions (n.p. Kindle edition). Edmonton: Inkshed Publications.
Freedman, A., & Medway, P. (Eds.). (1994). Genre and the New Rhetoric. London: Taylor & Francis.
Erickson, T. (2000). ‘Making sense of computer-mediated communication (CMC)’. Proceedings of 33rd Hawaii International Conference on Systems Science. IEEE Press. Available: http://ieeexplore.ieee.org/xpl/login.jsp?tp=&arnumber=926694&url=http%3A%2F%2Fieeexplore.ieee.org%2Fxpls%2Fabs_all.jsp%3Farnumber%3D926694
Fuller, M. (2005). Media Ecologies. Cambridge: The MIT Press.
Gains, J. (2000). ‘On wearing the film: Madam Satan (1930)’. In S. Bruzzi, & P. Church
Gibson. (Eds.). Fashion Cultures. London: Routledge. 159-190.
Gaugele, E. (2014). ‘Aesthetic politics in fashion: An introduction”. In E. Gaugele. (Ed.). Aesthetic Politics of Fashion. Berlin: Sternberg Press. 11-18.
Gauntlett, D. (2015). Making Media Studies. New York: Peter Lang.
Gunning, T. (1990). ‘The cinema of attractions: early film, its spectator and the avant-garde”. In T. Elsaesser. (Ed.). Early Cinema. London: BFI Publishing. 56-61.
Hartley, J. (2005). Creative Industries. Oxford: Blackwell.
Horst, H., Herr-Stephenson, B., & Robinson, L. (2010). ‘Media ecologies’. In M. Ito et al. (Eds). Hanging Out, Messing Around and Geeking Out. Cambridge: The MIT Press. 32-78.
Hyon, S. (1996). Genre in three traditions: Implications for ESL. TESOL Quarterly, 30(4), 693-722.
Jenkins, H. (2006). Convergence Culture. New York: NYU Press.
Karamoinas, V. & Geczy, A. (2012). Introduction. In A. Geczy & V. Karaminas. (Eds), Fashion and art (pp. 177-189). London: Berg.
Karaminas, V. (2012). Image: Fashionscapes. Notes toward an understanding of media technologies and their impact on contemporary fashion imagery. In A. Geczy & V. Karaminas. (Eds). Fashion and art (pp.1-13). London: Berg.
Kmais, S., & Munt, A. (2010). ‘The three Cs of fashion media today: convergence, creativity and control’. SCAN Journal of Media Arts Culture, 7(3), http://scan.net.au/scan/journal/display.php?journal_id=155. Accessed 19.10.2015).
Khan, N. (2012a). ‘Cutting the fashion body: why the fashion image is no longer still’. Fashion Theory, 16(2), 235-250.
Khan, N. (2012b). ‘Stealing the moment: the non-narrative fashion films of Ruth Hogben and Gareth Pugh’. Film, Fashion & Consumption, 1(3), 251-262.
Klingmann, A. (2007). Brandscapes. Cambridge: The MIT Press.
Koolhaas, R., Hommert, J., Kubo, M., & Office for Metropolitan Architecture. (2001). Prada: Part 1. New York: Distributed Art Publishers.
Kottak, C. (1999). The new ecological anthropology. American Anthropologist, 101(1): 23-35.
Lash, S., & Lury, C. (2007). Global Culture Industry. Cambridge: Polity Press.
Lemke, J. (1998). Metamedia literacy: transforming meanings and media. In D. Reinking, M. McKenna, L. Labbo, & R. Kieffer. (Eds.). Handbook of Literacy and Technology. Mahwah: Lawrence Erlbaum. 283-301.
Miller, C. (1984). ‘Genre as social action’. Quarterly Journal of Speech, 70(2), 151-167.
Miller, C. (2015). Genre change and evolution. In N. Artemeva & A. Freedman (Eds.), Genre studies around the globe: Beyond the three traditions (pp. 154–185). Edmonton: Inkshed Publications.
Miller, C. & Shepherd, D. (2004). ‘Blogging as social action: a genre analysis of the weblog’. In L. Gurak, S. Antonijevic, L. Johnson, C. Ratliff, & J: Reyman. (Eds.). Into the Blogosphere. Available: http://blog.lib.umn.edu/blogosphere/blogging_as_social_action.html
Mitchell, W.J.T. (2013). ‘Foreword: media aesthetics’. In L. Hausken. (Ed.). Thinking Media Aesthetics. Frankfurt: Peter Lang. 15-27.
Morrison, A. (2010). (Ed.), Inside multimodal composition. Cresskill: Hampton Press.
Morrison, A., & Skjulstad, S. (2007). Talking cleanly about convergence. In T. Storsul, & D. Stuedahl (Eds.), The ambivalence of convergence (pp. 217- 335). Göteborg: Nordicom.
Morrison, A., & Skjulstad, S. (2010). Mediating hybrid design: imaginative renderings of automotive innovation on the Web. In A. Morrison (Ed.), Inside multimodal composition (pp. 121-144). Cresskill NJ: Hampton Press.
Morrison, A., & Skjulstad, S. (2011). Laying eggs in
other people’s pockets. In B. Gentakow, E. Skogseth, & S. Østerud (Eds.), Literacy - technology - cultural techniques. How does communication technology mediate culture? (pp. 201-224). Cresskill: Hampton Press.
Muriale, S. (2014). ‘From physical to virtual: the global scope of online fashion presentations’. In E. Gaugele. (Ed.). Aesthetic Politics of Fashion. Berlin: Sternberg Press. 131-145.
Prior, P. (2009). ‘From speech genres to mediated multimodal genre systems’. In C. Bazerman, A. Bonini, & D. Figueiredo. (Eds.). Genre in a Changing World. Fort Collins: WAC Clearinghouse and Parlour Press. 17-34.
Ryan, N. (2007). ‘Prada and the art of patronage’. Fashion Theory, 11(1), 7-23.
Skjulstad, S. (2014). ‘Exhibiting fashion: museums as myth in contemporary branding and media culture’. In Proceedings of NODEM: Engaging spaces, design and digital strategies (pp. 136-144.) 1-3 December. Warszaw, Poland.
Spinuzzi. C. (2002). Modeling genre ecologies. In Proceedings of the 20th Annual International Conference on Computer Documentation (SIGDOC ‘02) (pp. 200-207). ACM: New York.
Spinuzzi, C. & Zachry, M. (2000). Genre ecologies: an open-system approach to understanding and constructing documentation. ACM Journal of Computer Documentation, 2(3), 169-181.
Spinuzzi, C. (2003). Tracing genres through organizations: A sociocultural approach to information design. Cambridge: The MIT Press.
Strate, L. (2010). Echoes and Reflections. Cresskill: Hampton Press.
Swales, J. (2004). Research Genres. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.
Taylor, M. (2005). ‘Culture transition: fashion’s cultural dialogue between commerce and art’. Fashion Theory, 4(9), 445-460.
Trappel. J. (2015). ‘What to study when studying media and communication innovation? Research design for the digital age’. Journal of Media Innovations, 2(1), 7-22. Available: https://www.journals.uio.no/index.php/TJMI/article/view/879
Uhlirova, M. (2013a) ‘100 years of fashion film: frameworks and histories’. Fashion Theory, 17(2), 137-158.
Uhlirova, M. (2013b). ‘The fashion film effect’. In D. Bartlett, S. Cole, & A. Rocamora. (Eds.). Fashion Media: Past and Present. New York: Bloomsbury Academic. 118-129.
von Hippel, E. (1988). The Sources of Innovation. Oxford: Oxford University Press.
Warner, H. (2012). ‘Critical approaches to on-screen fashion’. Film, Fashion & Consumption, 1(1), 121-132.
- Authors retain copyright and grant the journal right of first publication with the work simultaneously licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution BY 4.0 License that allows others to share the work with an acknowledgement of the work's authorship and initial publication in this journal.
- Authors are able to enter into separate, additional contractual arrangements for the non-exclusive distribution of the journal's published version of the work (e.g., post it to an institutional repository or publish it in a book), with an acknowledgement of its initial publication in this journal.
- Authors are permitted and encouraged to post their work online (e.g., in institutional repositories or on their website) prior to and during the submission process, as it can lead to productive exchanges, as well as earlier and greater citation of published work (See The Effect of Open Access).